A family trip either
to the Himalayan peak or overseas to visit Indian Islands was on cards, after
too many permutations and combinations we grouped fifteen members in all and
boarded the christened military train – Tamil Nadu express on the way to
Srinagar. To board the train in time was itself an experience and so next day
noon; we promised to abide by the name of train and cheered a Bacardi. Alighted
at New Delhi Railway station and tussled to Airport after befittingly bargaining
for our taxi cabs, the necessity of bargaining started here and it followed
till we pushed ourselves south!!
The foot step at the
airport brought the child within each one of us, check-in and boarding spicejet,
made our maiden flight journey a true success! On reaching Srinagar airport we
sensed a breath of icy air, we were ecstatic and searched for nameplate bearing
“Suresh Solomon” and we followed him. On the way to our hotel “Akbar Inn”, we
saw total numbness in the city. On recognising it was a Friday I discussed with
a Islamic friend of mine, the religious fervour with which the Kashmirs observe
their namaz, without knowing that there
was a shootout killing 7 civilians just an hour back and it was a called shut
down all over Kashmir. So this was our Welcome Kashmir message!! In the evening
we experienced the beautiful Shikara ride at sub Zero degree temperature, it
was terrific in the splendid icy waters of famous Dal Lake. Only during our Shikara
ride we realised our decision not to spend a night in house boat was a wise
man’s decision. So we averted the first day disaster. Our ride was package
sponsored, otherwise would cost Rs. 150/- per hour per shikara.
Need to ensure not
more than 4 persons board a shikara. It would require an art to escape from the
rowing merchandise of still photography, saffron, dress materials, snacks,
vegetables, flowers etc. Our first
sought out destination was a drive to Sonamarg through NH 1D which was a
spectacular facet of country side in Kashmir, Nallah Sindh, the largest
tributary of the Jhelum River in the valley of Kashmir. The river ran crystal
clear like thinner stream as glaciers were yet to melt. We lost our senses when
we peeped through the windows to look at houses packed with full of snow. The
roads leading to the houses were not visible and on enquiry with our driver we
were informed that even schools were closed for full 3-4 months every year
during winter. So, all our doubts on the literacy rate of Kashmir were floored.
On reaching Sonamarg we found the spot nestled within the imposing Himalayan
peaks. At an altitude of 2800 metres above sea level the valley was rightly believed to be bestowed with mystical
water which turns everything into eternal riches. Hoof!!! Pudhu vellai mazhai ingu
polligindrathu…….!!!
|
Pudhu vellai mazhai ingu
polligindrathu |
Everyone was eager to make a move somehow to the snow-clad
peaks. Pony ride was a must and so bargaining fetched us a pony for less than
Rs. 500/-. A ride on the pony for few kilometres got us a chance to enjoy
sledge ride on snow. The sledge assistants quoted Rs.250/300 per point and
enlisted some 11 points altogether, but we got them for Rs. 150 covering all
points. The bargaining stuff would bring down your cherishing experience but we
should remember that it’s a part of the trip to the Snow clad Mountains. The
sledging spot was breath taking, lively experience in difficult terrain and we
were “aasman ke behaut kaareeb”. Although we skipped Krishnasar Lake due to one
of our female companion not accompanying us on pony due to pregnancy, but
fellow tourists should visit it as it was just few kilometres from there. On
our return we stopped to photograph at another sledging spot, the moment we got
down from our ponies we had no words to express the beauty of nature and we
almost ran humpty dumpty in the snow clad mountains. The day’s destination was done and we wanted
to fill our belly at sonamarg itself but our driver took us to his favourite
commission dhabha to find Plain rice Rs.60/-, Plain Dal Rs. 60/-, Roti Rs. 5/-,
Pakkoda Rs. 80/- and Allu Matar Rs. 150/-, as we had no other choice we enjoyed
our lunch at 5pm.
|
Heaven on Earth |
The destination for the
subsequent day was Phalgam, shortly called “Heaven on Earth”. It was a 3 hour one way trip journey from
Srinagar. This time the ride was along
the saffron fields, orchid trees, grassy fields and the cricket bat factories
of Kashmir. Getting around Pahalgam is done mostly by walking, taxi and ponies.
We chose ponies again and this time the rate quoted by the ponywallahs was
double the quote at Sonamarg. They quoted Rs. 1750/- per pony for whole ride
and we started with Rs. 300/- as usual and we ended up paying Rs. 550/- pony.
It was bargain hunting which helped us because we saw people pay Rs.1250-1500
per pony. The terrain was too testing
and the pony ride was a true adventure. The pony took us to Baisaran or 'Mini
Switzerland’ and it was too awesome an experience riding in the midst of snow
fall. From there we rode to Kashmir valley, hoof!!! “You can just keep gazing
for hours”. Chandanwari, Betaab Valley
and Aru can be reached by taxi for an onward trek to Lidderwat, Kolohoi
Glaciers, etc. It would cost you about Rs 1500 as there was no bargaining.
Though we could have had our lunch at Dana pani, we chose Hotel Hakeem and it
was not bad either. White water rafting was
a must do thing on the return from Pahalgam but as glaciers were yet to melt,
we were deprived from experiencing the raft craft, still we adventured to have
a feel of the icy water, I slipped and fell flat in the water and rest was a Salman
Khan Style still pose in the shivering cold. We were lost in the dream Stream
of Lidder River, watching its flow and the pebbles beneath. It was getting dark
so we started from there only to stop to drink Kahwah, traditional green tea
recipe of Kashmir. The tea was made from green tea leaves with saffron strands,
cinnamon bark and cardamom pods. One of my friends hopped big to recollect the
movie Mission Kashmir where the same drink was offered to soldiers. It was a
nice drink after which we were marketed some apricot, Afghanistan black grapes,
badam, apple jam etc. Wherever the driver stopped, it was his commission mandi
but we could not help ourselves in the naive world. Mugal garden, Tulip garden
and Shalimar garden would be worth visiting in the summer as we could hardly
see anything green in the garden, why talk about lack of flowers then.
The cheery packed
Srinagar trip came to a halt only after we (male
members) ventured in to have a look at Lal-chowk, the market area of
Srinagar. It was getting dark, with rain and chillness creeping through the ear
drums; we walked a long stretch only to find shops getting unfolded for the
day. When we stepped further to taste lamp kabab, a sound of a gunshot shell
shocked everyone, within 30 seconds life was normal for the localities unlike
us, we decided to ply back to our hotel rooms only to find the auto-wallas
exchange conversation in Urdu which we were too alien to us, but somehow in
serious distress we luckily landed safe at our hotel, thus ended a short couple
of hours ordeal (taste) of real Kashmir. We prayed Allah! Allah! Allah!!! and Insha
Allah! We were safe. Next day we departed from hotel after multiple frisking by
CRPF, AAI, Private airlines we boarded the flight back to India sorry New
Delhi.
Our trip to Agra
started well from Hazarat Nizzamuddin. We broke our fast at Comesum in Agra
Cant Station. My itinerary was to reach Taj Mahal by a hired taxi, get dropped
and after roaming for an hour or two, lunch outside Taj Mahal and get
transported to Agra fort on the way to Agra cant. With the same itinerary, I
approached Agra tourism but it was jam packed priced Rs.330/- person. So,
immediately I rushed to pre-paid taxi counter to find out the viability. The
fellow in the traffic police routed pre paid counter betrayed me by saying that
there were no one-way trips available at Taj Mahal to move either to Fort or
station back. As I could not decipher more, I hired a couple of 5 hour taxis by
paying Rs. 650/- auto. After a kick start the taxi walla said Taj was a splendour to watch, so we
necessarily should visit agra fort first and on the way to Taj he would show
Mini Taj Mahal, which was a must watch. We stuck to his plan as we educated
illiterates believed him. Mini Taj Mahal was a real bakwass, it was a UP
cottage industry and the stop was to gain commission for him on our purchase.
Then he got us dropped at West gate of Taj and there were camels and rickshaws
which claimed that it was 2 kms from there and they would charge just Rs.10/-
person. We preferred a camel ride and now it was the camel walla turn to fox
us, he claimed that it was lunch at Taj from 12.45 to 1.45 and so we can
shelter or have a look at the UP cottages sales adjacent to it. We got Wild, as
already we were mocked by the mini taj mahal fox call. So we asked him to ride
us to Taj and when we got to the ticket counter we heard there was no lunch
time at Taj except a full day holiday on Friday alone.
After watching the
splendors’ TajMahal, we thought of going back to station but as we had one more
hour we thought of having a good lunch and that was the messiest of things we
did. He took us to a restaurant which served us worth- less, taste- less lunch
and I had no other option but to show my anger on the hotel manager, my wife in
addition to almost pulling the driver’s collar for a hasty betrayal on all
fronts. Finally as we reached Agra cantt and I pacified everyone to order their
will-full food at comesum.
My initial
plan was perfect but the pre-paid counter men held hands with the taxi wallas
and foxed us. So those visiting Agra from Agra cantt need to be extra vigil.
The final day was
destined for a local tour at New delhi, but as one of friends on tour had to
leave the suddenly due to his wife’s miscarriage, our mind went shell blank. In
total fuss I could not even call my friends and acquaintances residing in New delhi
to assist in the local tour. We again hired a couple of day –vehicle at Delhi
for Rs. 700/- vehicle for visiting Red fort, Jamma Masjid and Rajghat. We could
have minimised cost had we hired taxis/autos to places separately, but
considering the mood at the dawn, we had no complaints. Shopping at Delhi
requires the art of choosing the right yarn and right quality before deciding
to buy. The art of bargaining alone will give you hand while shopping in Pallika
Bazaar and Sarojini Market to a little extent. Karol Bagh is a long stretch and
you tend to get tired walking for such a distance though all the goods of your
choice will be available to shop at. The most sasta market is Jamma Masjid Old delhi
market were the quotes are very reasonable but then quality matters.
In short the trip was
a huge success and we aptly cheered every day with Magic moments. Thank God we
made it.